Izvještaj o berbi: Barolo 2009- Winestealssd.com

Barolo 2009,

Pijemont

Tom Maresca bio je potpuno razočaran ovom degustacijom 2009. godine, navodeći kao jedan od razloga za ovu 'mračnu' izložbu propust vinara da se pozabave pitanjem koliko je berba bila teška.

'Nekoliko je 2009. opravdalo optimizam u vezi s njihovom dugovječnošću, a većina proizvođača govorila je o 2009. kao berbi za kratkotrajno pijenje'

Berba 2009 Barolo suočit će potrošače s nekim surovim istinama i nekim oštrim vinima. Okusio sam više od 200 primjeraka Barola 2009 u Nebbiolo Prima u Albi u svibnju. Većini vina koja su se nudila tijekom pet dana događanja ne samo da nije nedostajala klasična Nebbiolo boja, već nije pokazivao gotovo nikakve arome niti arome Nebbiolo.

Volim Barolo i poštujem i divim se mnogim njegovim producentima zbog njihove predanosti i jasnoće njihove vizije. Ipak, moram reći da u ovoj berbi izvedba mnogih od njih nije jednostavno nedostajala, već je bila sumorna.

Naravno, bilo je i iznimaka: nekoliko proizvođača - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, za neke - ispalo je prilično pitko Barolo. Nekolicina - osobito Pio Cesare i Massolino-Vigna Rionda - čak vjeruju u potencijal starenja svog vina. To mišljenje često su ponavljali trgovci i kupci, koji su probali izbor ovih vina tjedan dana ranije od novinara, i kod proizvođača (koji nisu slijepi). Ali mojem nepcu - i prema mišljenju mnogih novinara s kojima sam razgovarao - čini se da je većina proizvođača barola ozbiljno podcijenila težinu ove berbe. Nekoliko je 2009. opravdalo optimizam u vezi s njihovom dugovječnošću, a većina proizvođača govorila je o 2009. godini kao berbi pića u kratkom roku.

Giacomo Conterno, iz vinarije Aldo Conterno u općini Monforte, bio je jedan od otvorenijih proizvođača. Rekao je: ‘2009. je bila berba vinogradara. Krajem kolovoza neke su loze [Nebbiolo] već bile gotovo zrele, a neke potpuno nezrele - razlika između njih bila je gotovo 30 dana. Ono što ste učinili u vezi s tim odredilo je kakvo ste vino napravili. ’Obično optimistična procjena Conzorziove berbe ove godine vrlo je pažljiva:

'Berba iz 2009. također će se pamtiti po nepravilnom načinu zrenja ... Što se tiče tehnološkog sazrijevanja, berba se može staviti između 2003. i 2007. godine ... Što se tiče fenolnog sazrijevanja ... podaci pronađeni u grožđu bili su usporedivi s 2003. godinom ... u ovoj berbi rezultati nisu uvijek bili poboljšani odgodom berbe. '

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Napisao Tom Maresca