Terroir je jedna od onih modnih riječi koje svi u vinskom svijetu prihvaćaju, ali što to zapravo znači? I ima li to doista učinak na vina za koji tvrde proizvođači? Rupert Joy kopa duboko kako bi to saznao
Terroir je jedna od onih modnih riječi koje svi u vinskom svijetu prihvaćaju, ali što to zapravo znači? I ima li to doista učinak na vina za koji tvrde proizvođači? Rupert Joy kopa duboko kako bi to saznao
koji je izglasan za ples sa zvijezdama
Južno od Condrieua u sjevernoj Roni nalazi se maleni apelat Château-Grillet. Njegova 3,4 hektara vinove loze na strmim padinama prirodnog amfiteatra daju male količine vina od iste sorte grožđa i tla kao i njegov mnogo veći susjed Condrieu. Ali prepoznat je od 1936. godine kao zaseban klima uređaj, a prodaje se za mnogo više. Njegova vlasnica, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, naglašava da je izvornost vina od njegovih granitnih tla i izloženost prema jugu prepoznata stoljećima. No neki se njezini susjedi pitaju postoji li takva razlika između teroara Château-Grillet i Condrieu.
Ideja da određeni dijelovi zemlje daju posebno velika vina nije nova. Filozof John Locke, koji je posjetio Bordeaux 1677. godine, primijetio je 'posebnost u tlu' Château Haut-Briona koja ga je razlikovala od njegovih susjeda. Knjiga opata Arnouxa, objavljena u Londonu 1728. godine, pripisivala je veličinu Montracheta u Burgundiji određenom pojasu zemlje na Côte d'Or-u.
Ono što je moderni fenomen je upotreba riječi 'terroir' za opisivanje ideje. Njegove izvorne francuske konotacije bile su pogrdne. Do sredine 20. stoljeća, vin terroité značio je rustikalno, zemljano vino s, u najboljem slučaju, svojevrsnim šarmom jokela i, u najgorem slučaju, manama. Vino s goût de terroir-om (okus terroira) bilo je nekvalitetno proizvedeno vino s okusom nezrelog ili trulog grožđa. Ideja o terroiru kao pozitivnijem atributu pojavila se tek rođenjem AC sustava 1930-ih.
Svatko ima svoju definiciju terroira. Možda je najjednostavnije ono američkog vinskog pisca Matta Kramera, koji to opisuje kao 'negdje'. Većina francuskih definicija, uključujući definiciju INAO (tijelo odgovorno za francuski AC sustav), uključuje četiri ključna elementa: fizičke karakteristike mjesta (posebno tlo i izloženost), njegovu klimu, sortu grožđa i ulogu koju čovjek igra .
maxie povećanje tjelesne težine u općoj bolnici 2019
Malo tko bi osporio osnovnu premisu da vina dobivaju određene karakteristike iz mjesta na kojem se uzgaja njihovo grožđe i da čovjek ima ulogu u izražavanju tih karakteristika. No s obzirom na to da gotovo svaki proizvođač vina danas tvrdi da proizvodi vina koja poštuju terroir i tvrdi da ima 'neintervencionistički' pristup, potrošač se ima razloga pitati što terroir znači u praksi.
maskirana pjevačica majka svih posljednjih obračuna, prvi dio
Korijeni terroira
Možda zato što je riječ slična 'terenu', tendiramo teroire uglavnom povezivati s tlom. To zauzvrat može potaknuti percepciju da vina izravno dobivaju okus iz tla u kojem se uzgajaju.
Klasičan primjer je Chablis, jedno od najprepoznatljivijih svjetskih vina. Usprkos tome što je napravljen od sveprisutne sorte grožđa, Chablisov izraz Chardonnaya nije sličan onome iz bilo koje druge regije. Vina koja su najcjenjenija potječu od mekog kemeridžanskog krednog lapora, sastavljenog od pretpovijesnih školjki kamenica.
Proizvođači i vinari često uspostavljaju vezu između karakterističnog vinskog kremeno-jodnog okusa vina i geologije regije. ‘Kako drugačije možete objasniti jodirane note u Chablisu ako ne sastavom tla?’ Pita Bernard Billaud-Simon. 'Ovaj okus ne možete pronaći u chardonnayima uzgajanim drugdje.'
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Zanimljivi Članci
