Bordeaux 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Što je to pong? LINDA MURPHY ispituje toliko zloćudni, neshvaćeni, ali u nekim četvrtima i cijenjeni svijet Brettanomycesa.
U prvoj godini svoje vinske karijere točio sam vino na prikazivanju vrhunskih boca iz cijelog svijeta. Na pauzi od štanda, obišao sam sobu kako bih kušao mnoge druge ponude.
Kad sam se vratio za svoj stol, vinar pored mene pitao je: ‘Je li vas nešto stvarno impresioniralo?’ ‘Châteauneuf-du-Pape iz Château de Beaucastel iz 1989.’, odgovorio sam. Nasmijao se: 'Morate voljeti Bretta.' Iako nisam znao što je Brett - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-see) - u to vrijeme, obožavao sam zemljani, kožni, dimljeni slanin i začin Beaucastela , mesnato voće i čvrsta struktura.
Kasnije ću saznati da bi Brett, prirodni kvasac koji još nije štetan za konzumaciju, aromatizira i arome vina može činiti i dobre i loše stvari, bio vruća tema među vinarima, bez jasnog pobjednika u raspravi.
Vinogradari ga nazivaju 'B riječ', a u najboljem slučaju Brettanomyces vinu mogu dati ono što mnogi vjeruju kao pozitivne atribute koji dodaju složenost i dubinu: zemljani okusi kože rukavica, dimljenog mesa, masti od slanine, duhana, tartufa, karanfilića i drugih slanih sastojaka začina.
Ipak, kad B postane loš, to vinu može zadati uvredljiv smrad po dvorištu, stajnjaku, flasterima, mokrom psu, znojnom pokrivaču konja, mišjem izmetu i antiseptiku. Bojeći se potonjeg, mnogi vinari širom svijeta čine sve kako bi spriječili zagađenje Brettom.
Drugi je malo potiču, jer za tu dodatnu masu interesa ipak moraju naporno raditi kako divlji kvasac ne bi nadvladao sortni karakter i voćnost. Drugi, pa, recimo samo da ako je čistoća uz bogoljublje, neki vinari ne idu u crkvu. Oni koji tvrde da je goût de terroir za svoje neukusno punjenje u boce samo se opravdavaju za nehigijenske postupke.
Prijatelj ili neprijatelj?
Postoji više vrsta - i teorija - o Brettanomycesu, a za cjelovitu raspravu potrebna je mikrobiološka teza. Jednostavno, s Brettom su identificirana dva spoja koja mijenjaju vino: 4-etil gvajakol (4-npr.), Koji doprinosi onome što mnogi misle slanini i začinima i 4-etil fenol 4-ep), sa svojim negativnim žbukama, mokri pas i ljekovita svojstva.
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Zanimljivi Članci
