Crumpa od šampanjca uživa u svojoj ekskluzivnosti, ali njegovih 17 vinograda grand crua i dalje je uglavnom nepoznanica. GILES FALLOWFIELD pita što sve donosi na stol i zašto se ne pojavljuju na etiketi.
Šampanjac ima mnogo sličnosti s Burgundijom, najbližim vinogradarskim susjedom. Champagne Cruske zajedničke su sorte grožđa Pinot Noir i Chardonnay, pa ako želite pogledati dalje od mjehurića u Champagneu, proizvodite vina sličnog okusa. Oboje koriste isti sustav ocjene kvalitete, s tim da su vrhunski vinogradi u svakom apelacijskom okrugu označeni kao grand cru, a premier cru sljedeću razinu.
Međutim, iako su u Burgundiji pojmovi grand i premier cru jasno napisani na etiketama velike većine vina koja ih imaju pravo koristiti, oni se ne pojavljuju na mnogim bocama šampanjca. Zašto ne? Dijelom i zato što u modernoj eri prodajom šampanjca droga dominiraju imena poput Moët & Chandon, Laurent-Perrier i Veuve Clicquot. Kao rezultat toga, koncept grand cru šampanjca zapravo nije razvijen. No vjerojatnije je da će potrošači u budućnosti naići na ove pojmove.
Pa što je grand cru šampanjac, zašto se više vina ne prodaje kao takvo? A zašto vrhunski vinogradi Champagnea nisu toliko poznati kao što su Chambertin, Clos Vougeot i Le Montrachet?
U Šampanjcu je svih 318 sela ocijenjeno kvalitetom u sustavu Echelle des Crus (doslovno 'ljestvica rasta') i ocijenjeno klasifikacijom između 100 i 80% (najniža ocjena). Nekih 257 od njih procjenjuje se negdje između 80 i 89. Jedna stepenica više dolaze 44 premijera Crus, koji se u svojoj klasifikaciji kreću od 90 do 99. Vrh hrpe je 17 grand cru sela, koja su ocijenjena 100% na Echelle des Crus.
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Zanimljivi Članci
