Španjolske amfore poznate kao tinaje preuzele su barrique u vinariji Elisabette Foradori u Trentinu
- Naglasci
- Dugo čitati vinske članke
- Časopis: izdanje za svibanj 2018
Simon Woolf istražuje izvještaje o kontrarevoluciji u talijanskim vinskim podrumima ...
U filmu Paola Casalisa iz 2014. postoji kratak, ali dramatičan trenutak Dječaci Barolo: Priča o revoluciji kada vinar Elio Altare motornom pilom odvede do impozantne linije botti (tradicionalnih velikih hrastovih bačvi) koje stoje u podrumu njegove obitelji.
Njegovo ritualno uništavanje ovih časnih posuda, doneseno 1983. godine, imalo je praktičnu svrhu - stvoriti prostor za novo kupljene, manje barriquee od francuskog hrasta. Ali moćna simbolika bila je jasna - navodno smrdljivi botti u raspadu predstavljali su stari poredak. Linije savršenih, tek surađenih barriquea poslale su jasnu poruku modernosti i stila.
Pomaknite se prema dolje da biste vidjeli Woolfov izbor talijanskih vina napravljenih bez hrasta
Ono što se 1983. činilo najmodernijim, postalo je modelom prestižnih talijanskih vinarija krajem devedesetih. Ali u novije vrijeme odlučujuće hrastovo milovanje barriquea palo je u nemilost, od Furlanije na sjeveroistoku do Sicilije na jugu i svih točaka između.
Talijanski vinari sve više prelaze na alternativne materijale i posude za fermentaciju i starenje, u rasponu od arkana do izravnog outrea.
Tamo gdje su nekada stajali barriquei, sada bi to mogle biti amfore, gruzijski qvevris, betonska jaja ili velike bagremove bačve. Je li ovo samo ciklično brušenje modne trake za trčanje ili dio odlučnijeg pokreta ka većoj autentičnosti i izrazu?
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Woolf-ove bilješke i ocjene za izbor talijanskih vina proizvedenih bez hrasta:
Zanimljivi Članci
