Nova postava Haut-Baillyja. Zasluge: Haut-Bailly
Zašto je Château Haut-Bailly još uvijek toliko insajdersko vino? Je li to zbog toga što ovo diskretno bižuterija ima samo nekoliko tisuća slučajeva grand cru klase de Graves. Ili je to i zbog toga što to prikupljatelji ljubomorno vole držati u strogo čuvanoj tajni?
Jedno je jasno - danas je Haut-Bailly jedna od najdosljednijih i najintimnijih klareta. Druga je činjenica da njegova procjenjiva kvaliteta proizlazi iz iznimnog terroira s crvenim vinom, što su njegovi različiti vlasnici i skrbnici često činili sve da odražavaju tijekom njegove slavne povijesti. Zapravo je Haut-Bailly dvostruko blagoslovljen - kako od strane njegovih vlasnika, tako i zbog njegovog položaja.
Vinograd se nalazi uz zamak, u jedinstvenom jedinstvenom bloku na najvišem grebenu AC Pessac-Léognan. Vinova loza otpada na blagom gradijentu, dajući savršenu izloženost. Posebna mezoklima štiti ga od proljetnih mrazeva, dok mješavina šljunkovitih tla i podzemlja osigurava minerale, umjereni stres vode i izvrsnu drenažu. Jean-Bernard Delmas, nekada iz Château Haut-Brion, slavno ga je opisao kao 'uistinu veliki terroir'.
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Haut-Bailly - vremenska crta
1461 Najraniji zapisi o vinovoj lozi na šljunkovitom usponu imanja
1630 Vlasnici Firmin Le Bailly i Nicolas de Leuvarde proširuju i konsolidiraju vinograd na današnju veličinu od 33ha
1872. godine Alcide Bellot des Minières kupuje Haut-Bailly
1918 Haut-Bailly kupuje Frantz Malvesin
1955. godine Imanje koje je stekao Belgijanac Daniel Sanders
1979 Jean Sanders preuzima od oca
1997 Véronique Sanders pridružuje se Haut-Baillyju
1998 Robert G Wilmers imanje kupuje od obitelji Sanders
2000 Véronique Sanders imenovana upraviteljem nekretnine (i kasnije predsjednikom)
2002 Gabriel Vialard postaje tehnički direktor
2012 Robert G Wilmers kupuje i obnavlja Château Le Pape
Čarobna formula
Sve je to trajalo nekoliko godina - i to ne neznatan iznos novca. 'Bobova je investicija bila mjehurić čistog kisika za Haut-Baillyja', kaže Sanders. ‘Njegovo razumijevanje da je kvaliteta vina bila najvažnija i da je odatle sve teklo omogućilo nam je da se krećemo ne samo brže, već i dalje.’
Učinak se zaista pokazao u berbi 2004. godine. 'To je bio prvi veliki korak', kaže Sanders. Drugi se dogodio 2008. godine i nije slučajno što ove dvije klasične berbe nisu najhvaljenije u Bordeauxu. 'Ovo je jedna od prednosti Haut-Baillyja', dodaje ona. ‘Uvijek se nadmašujemo u takozvanim off-berbama.’ 2013. treba probati da bi se povjerovalo, što dokazuje da Haut-Bailly nikad ne promašuje.
Uz svaku berbu, njezin je cilj stalan: iznijeti najbolje od cijenjenog terroira Haut-Baillyja. Ono što ona traži je suptilna ravnoteža između finoće i koncentracije. ‘Cilj mi je čistoća, svježina, glatkoća i struktura voća s mekanim, zrelim taninima i izraženim aromama.’ Mješavina se razlikuje od godine do godine, ponekad i prilično dramatično, što je daljnji dokaz izvanredne dosljednosti Haut-Baillyja. Njezina je tajna za vrijeme berbe uvijek rano ubrati merlot radi svježine, pričekati i pričekati cabernet, berući ga u posljednjem mogućem trenutku.
'U konačnici, želim novu zlatnu eru za Haut-Bailly, kakvu smo uživali u 19. stoljeću', kaže ona. Neki (uključujući i mene) tvrdili bi da su ona i Wilmers to već postigli. Na današnjem tržištu nemoguće je nadmašiti i nadmašiti cijene prvih rasta. Ali Haut-Bailly nesumnjivo je smanjio jaz, odvodeći imanje na nove visine. Danas je Grand Cru classé de Graves uživa ekvivalent statusu 'supersekunde', često bez prateće cijene. Nedavno je Wilmers kupio i obnovio imanje u blizini zvano Château Le Pape, koje već pokazuje veliko obećanje pod Sandersovim nadzorom. 'Bob uvijek ima planove. Uvijek gleda. Često se našali rekavši: 'Ovdje imam dobar tim i želim ga zauzeti'. '
Sanders očito uspijeva u izazovu i ne može biti ispunjeniji. ‘Postoji nešto čarobno u ovom mjestu što osjećam vrlo intenzivno.’ Isto vrijedi i za Wilmersa i ostatak izvanredne skupine ljudi koji vole i brinu o ovom dragulju vinograda.
Haut-Bailly ne može biti u boljim rukama.
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Uspoređujući dva Pichona
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Profil proizvođača Montrose
Kušanje Haut-Baillyja:
Zanimljivi Članci
