Kako pojam „mineralnost“ postaje sve više u modi, tako i potraga za definicijom dobiva zamah. Sarah Jane Evans MW objavljuje mišljenje vinara i istraživača širom svijeta.
chicago p.d. sezona 3 epizoda 11
Vinski rječnik je loš putnik. Riječi koje koristimo zloglasno su specifične za kulturu, od damsona do rambutana i wakame do ječmenog šećera. Sada se na vinskim kartama i u bilješkama o kušanju pojavljuje nova riječ koja izaziva zabunu. Iako je ‘mineralnost’ pojam koji smatram korisnim, nema određenog pogleda na to što to znači.
Vina koja se opisuju kao mineralna također se općenito opisuju kao „elegantna“, „vitka“, „čista“ i „kiselinska“. Imaju okus kao da ližu mokro kamenje i često se krečaste teksture podudaraju. Neki tvrde da se odnosi samo na bijela vina, ali onaj tko je kušao Priorat s tla likorele (škriljevca) u tom području znat će da se to događa i u crvenim. Neki tvrde da ga možete osjetiti, a najviše da se pojavljuje na nepcu.
Pretpostavka je da su mineralna vina superiornija od ‘masovnog tržišta’, voća s novim svijetom. Imaju romantičnu sliku koja podrazumijeva da ih ručno izrađuju zanatlije i izražavaju tajnu tla, a vinogradar je čarobni posrednik. Tipični primjeri nalaze se u Chablisu, u Prioratu, u Mencíasu od Ribeira Sacra i Bierzo, i naravno u Loire Sauvignon Blancs, te rizlingima iz Mosela i Rheingaua u Njemačkoj te Wachauu i Kremstalu u Austriji. Imajte na umu da su ovo europski primjeri. Ovo nije samo europski karakter, već se čini istaknutijim na mjestima gdje vina pokazuju manje voća i veću kiselost.
Nedavni termin
Upečatljiva je činjenica da se ‘mineralnost’ počela izražavati tek 1980-ih. Nije se pojavio u djelima The Taste of Wine (1983) Emila Peynauda, niti Aroma Wheel (1984) Ann Noble, niti u The Oxford Companion to Wine (2006 - iako će biti prisutan u 4. izdanju koje treba izaći 2015.). Anegdotalno mi kažu da mi studenti WSET-a savjetuju da ih ne koriste u kušanju bilješki. Ipak je to moderan pojam, dobro uspostavljen među ljubiteljima vina.
Odakle dolazi ova opsesija? Među mnogim potrošačima, uostalom, mineralni lik 'polizanih kamenaca' smatra se negativnim. Je li se promijenilo vinogradarstvo ili vinarstvo? Ili nas samo zavodi pametni marketing? Mnogi proizvođači to vide kao izraz terroira, dok ga neki enološki stručnjaci prepisuju na spojeve proizvedene u vinarstvu. Bez obzira na podrijetlo, ne postoji dogovorena definicija mineralnosti, ali za mnoge, uključujući i mene, to je vrlo korisna riječ.
Činjenica ili fikcija?
Krenimo od onoga što je poznato. Međunarodno mineraloško udruženje definira ‘mineral’ kao ‘element ili kemijski spoj koji je obično kristalni i koji je nastao kao rezultat geoloških procesa’. Dakle, vinova loza uzima elemente iz tla i to vinima daje njihov prepoznatljiv okus? Pravo? Pogrešno! Mineralni elementi u vinu su sićušni, samo kalij i kalcij dosežu čak 1000 dijelova na milijun. Ne dolazi u obzir da ih kušate. Kao rezultat toga, znanost okusu minerala daje kratki stisak.
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Pogledajte pet najboljih vina Sarah Jane Evans za okus mineralnosti:
Zanimljivi Članci
