1982., koju mnogi smatraju najvećom berbom modernog doba, vidjeli su SAD
osjetite svoj ukus za vrhunske, a Bordelais otkriva zrelost. Dvadeset pet
godina nakon što je prvi put kušan, NIKOLAS VJERA se vraća u prošlost
1982., koju su mnogi smatrali najvećom berbom modernog doba, SAD je stekao ukus za vrhunske, a Bordelais je otkrio zrelost. Dvadeset pet godina nakon što je prvi put kušan, Nicholas Faith vraća se u prošlost.
The Berba 1982. godine nikad nije bio normalan. Za početak, kao Christian Moueix (sada Pétrusa, tada njegove obiteljske pregovaračke tvrtke JP Moueix) ističe: 'Bilo je savršeno ljeto, poput onih 1989. i 2005.'.
Za Jean-Bernarda Delmasa, koji je tada upravljao Haut-Brionom, 'Bilo je to naslonjače ljeto, vruće i suho, pa nije bilo bolesti, niti insekata koji bi nas brinuli'. Nije pretjerivao. Zima je bila blaga, travanj je bio suh i sunčan, a osim nekoliko razbacanih tuča, svibanj je jednako obećavao. Lipanj i srpanj pružali su izvrsnu, iako vrlo toplu mješavinu sunca i pljuskova, dok kolovoz i početak rujna, s temperaturama od 30 ° C, nisu učinili ništa da oštete grožđe ili spriječe ranu berbu - počevši od 15. rujna, čak i na sjevernom Médoc. Rezultat je bio Merlot s više od 13% potencijalnog alkohola, čak i finijim od Caberneta koji je dosegao više od 12% - razina koje se tada smatralo izvanrednima.
Nije to bila prva takva poslijeratna berba. 1959. je potencijalno bila jednako dobra
zbog tadašnje nekvalitetne proizvodnje vina, 'pola je završilo kao ocat', rekao je Moueix. 1982. ‘sve je bilo lako’. Njegovom ocu, legendarnom Jean-Pierreu, Pétrus je te godine nalikovao na 1947. godinu, ali s dvije velike razlike: da bio je „koncentriran i moćan“, ali bio je „manje gust“ od svog prethodnika. Gotovo nevjerojatan komentar za mene, s obzirom na to da je Pétrus iz 1982. godine, koji sam okusio početkom 1983. godine, bila najgušća, koncentrirana klaret koju sam ikad imao.
Ipak, svaki komentator primjećuje kako savršena ravnoteža ovih vina znači da jesu, riječima jednog pjesničkog stručnjaka 'poput velikih ljudi koji lagano plešu'. Grožđe je možda bilo zrelo, a ljeto vruće, ali nije bilo vruće kao 1947., pa nije bilo ni traga pregorjelom okusu koji je obilježio vina. Ipak, zrelost grožđa i vrućina u vrijeme berbe zahtijevali su odgovarajuću rashladnu opremu, koju je imalo samo nekoliko imanja. U Château Margauxu, normalno nepomirljivi Emile Peynaud uspaničio se, brinući se da će prekomjerne temperature u starim drvenim kazanjima dvorca zaustaviti fermentaciju. Nazvao je Corinne Mentzelopoulos, upravljajući imanjem nakon smrti njezina oca Andréa
prethodne godine i zatražio od nje da sankcionira kupnju 20.000 funti rashladnih pumpi.
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- Vidi također: David Peppercorn's Bordeaux berbeno izvješće od 1982. do 2005. godine
- Više o berbama vina iz Bordeauxa i širom svijeta potražite u decanter.com ‘S Vintage Vodiči stranica.Napisao Nicholas Faith
Zanimljivi Članci
