Lalou Us-Leroy - Grande Dame Burgundije- Winestealssd.com

Nije univerzalno voljena, a njezina vina su izvan većine nas, ali Stephen Brook je u lovu na neumornog Lalou Bize-Leroya

Lalou Bize-Leroy jedva da izgleda drugačije nego što je izgledala kad je sredinom 1980-ih dolazila u London predstavljati vina Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, čiji je dio vlasnik njezina obitelj. Ima blagu, vilenjaku figuru, svijetlih plavosivih očiju i kose koja je sada srebrno-plava, a ne čisto plava, odjeća joj je šik, ali potcijenjena. Potpuno je vjerovatno o ovoj gipkoj, uređenoj figuri razmišljati kao o predanom penjaču na stijenama - što je ona već desetljećima. Dok netko ne zastane da razmotri da bi u njenim godinama možda htjela malo odmoriti. Ali ni malo.

Bize-Leroy živi i diše burgundski terroir. Do 1988. godine glavna joj je briga bila obiteljska pregovaračka tvrtka Maison Leroy, koju i danas vodi, držeći podrume Meursault opskrbljene s milijun boca finog Burgundije. Njezin ga je pradjed osnovao 1868. godine, ali njezin je otac počeo stvarati zalihe starih vina od 1919. nadalje. ‘Još uvijek imamo na prodaju neke boce te berbe.’ Otada da ne spominjemo svaku sjajnu berbu. ‘Glavno zanimanje mog oca bilo je vođenje Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, tako da nikada nije uspio prodati vina koja je kupio.’ Bize-Leroy pridružio mu se 1955. godine.

Takvo iskustvo i perspektiva stavlja je u zastrašujući položaj unutar burgundske hijerarhije. 'Nemam ugovore s uzgajivačima i svake godine počinjem ispočetka. Ako volim vino, kupujem ga. Ako ne, neću. ’S tako ogromnim rezervama koje treba povući, ona se ne osjeća obveznom kupovati svake godine.

Vina Maison Leroy izuzetno su skupa, ali ona je s njima u potpunosti ponosna. Otprilike jednom godišnje kuša paletu i odlučuje što će pustiti, što zadržati. Često su izdane zrele stare berbe, koje su kolekcionari brzo ugrabili, posebno u SAD-u i Japanu. Ona također posjeduje 4 hektara Domaine d’Auvenay u St-Romainu, koji je njezin suprug Marcel Bize vodio do svoje smrti prije nekoliko godina. Sad to vodi sama. Unatoč svojoj skromnoj adresi, Auvenay u svom portfelju ima niz velikih grančica, ali količine su malene, a red za dodjelu dugačak.

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